Bespoke Bras, Lingerie and Supplies

Tutorial - How to Increase Projection on a Vertical Seam Bra


Recently, I had a few people inquire on how to increase projection on the wireless Lotus and other similar soft bras with vertical seams. In most of these situations, the volume was correct but tissue distribution dictated more projection was needed while MAINTAINING the bottom cup depth (BCD).

Today’s tutorial is a quick walk through on how to increase the projection of soft bras with vertical seams while keeping the BCD as is. While the example below is based on the Lotus pattern, this can easily be applied to any wireless bra with vertical seams such as the Oh Lulu Jasmine or Romy, PUG’s Sweet Sixteen, or Cloth Habit’s Watson. Lets Begin!

This quick and dirty version on how to increase projection focuses on increasing the curve of the vertical seam.

Increase Projection_Lotus.JPG

Increase projection by drawing a new line with more curve (in RED). Keep the total length of the seamline the same by using a flex ruler or clear plastic quilting ruler. This will ensure the seams line up when sewing.

Depending the pattern you are using, this may be all the alterations you need. This most likely the case with patterns that do NOT have a cradle like the Oh Lulu Romy or Jasmine. For those working with the Lotus, Watson or Sweet Sixteen, you may also need to alter the wireline as shown below.

Increase Projection_Lotus2.JPG
Increase Projection_Lotus3.JPG

Draw a new line (RED) that is similar in shape as the original (BLUE). Again, use a flex ruler (and/or walks the seamlines) to maintain the same length. You may need to shorten the center front height in order to maintain the same measurement. If this is the case, you may need to add more height to the center front to off set the difference as shown below.

Thats it!

Increase Projection_Lotus4.JPG

In some cases, you may need still MORE projection. For these lucky individuals, you need to add two more steps. Draw a curved line from the bust point mark to the wire line [red line]. Make sure your new BCD line [red] is the same length as the original BCD [blue]. How much shorter your new wireline will be depends on how much projection you need.

Grading Bra Size to BCD Size3.JPG

This reduced length in the wireline will also require a similar reduction of the wireline in the cradle.


Again, this is the quick and easy version to increase projection while maintaining the BCD doing the minimum amount of pattern alterations. Technically speaking, you should always work with seamlines instead of cutlines but for the sake of simplicity, this quick version should yield a wearable muslin with minimum fuss.

For those who need the opposite - reduced projection, simply decrease the curve.