Bespoke Bras, Lingerie and Supplies

Tutorial - How to convert a Vertical Seam Cup to a Darted Cup


Today’s tutorial is a quick one!

After posting this pic of a sample bra for my upcoming Wireless Workshop (just one more week!), I got a few questions on how to created that darted lace overlay. While this tutorial features the Lotus Bra Pattern, this technique can be applied for ANY (single) vertical seamed bra. Lets begin!


Have your 2 pattern pieces out and either cut off the seam allowance or lay them on top of each other along the SEAM LINE. The strap pieces should be touching while the bottom remains “open” like a hungry PacMan.

Converting vertical to darted.JPG

Trace along the outside of the pattern pieces. This will effectively merge the two pieces into one.

Converting vertical to darted_2.JPG

For those who overlayed the pattern as is, you are done! For those who cut off the seam allowance, you will now need to add it back on.

As for the altering the darted pattern to accommodate scalloped lace, its as simple as drawing a straight line!

Converting vertical to darted_3.JPG