LilypaDesigns

Bespoke Bras, Lingerie and Supplies

Review - Hugo Quili 2026 - Wireless Bra Pattern

ReviewLilypaDesigns2 Comments
Hugo Quili.png

We are reviewing a Hugo Quili wireless bra pattern featuring a stretch cradle! The 2026 “Brasier Senorial” has a retro vibe with horizontal seams and stretch cups. What interested me the most was the stretch cradle - this detail allows the entire bra band to move with you - a bonus for those with hourly/weekly/monthly bloating.

A few notes before we begin. Hugo Quili patterns are in Spanish - a language I have zero proficiency in. So how did I perform such an incredible feat? A combination of the Closed Captioning Subtitles and Google Translate. One of the nice things about Hugo Quili patterns is that they often come with an Instruction Video. You can view many of these videos on YouTube! While the video is once again in Spanish, you CAN turn on the Closed Captioning (CC) and select your language for the subtitles. This can be very beneficial for our visual learner friends.

DSC_0260.JPG
DSC_0261.JPG

On to the pattern itself!

METHODOLOGY
This pattern is ideal for those who have some experience or intrepid beginner with some Spanish fluency. Sizing can be a bit confusing - it states 34 - 40. This doesn’t mean much without cup sizes other than those are the band sizes available for the pattern. Having sewn up the pattern, it does seem Hugo Quili does use the old +4” system for bra bands. Cup size is determined by your bottom cup depth - that is the distance between your wireline (breast crease) and nipple in CENTIMETERS. Add 1 cm to this measurement and compare to the chart/diagram labelled "Probador de Talla". This will tell you which cup size to cut out.

Seam allowance is included. I used the usual 1/4”(6mm) on all seams and it seemed to work out fine. For elastics, I used my usual 3/4” (20mm) for the bottom band and 10mm for the upper band - this allowed me to use my usual 3x3 hook and eye (2” tall) without any adjustments. The caveat is that any elastic over 5/8” (16mm) WILL need to be trimmed underneath the cups and tucked under [empty] casing.

FABRICS

Using Google Translate, "elongacion o tado ques mas estira" under the grainline means max stretch. Since this was printed on all of the pieces, I assume the entire bra is designed to stretch. I used Techsheen in my version as its a great alternative to Powernet but has a smoother and silkier hand. It has approximately 50% stretch horizontal and 25% stretch vertical. The exterior floral mesh fabric is a kit from my shop.

DSC_0259.JPG


ALTERATIONS

I did a few of my “usual” alterations to the 2026. Namely reducing the width of the center gore and reducing the length of the band. As for the pattern pieces themselves, I used the 36 cups (my BCD was just between the 34 and 36 and I erred on the side of larger) and the 36 cradle to match but the 34 in band length. Hoping for a wearable muslin, I also added some slap dash internal slings so I can attach the nursing clasps. I say slap dash as the “slings” are literally random triangle scraps with unfinished edges! After basting on the straps and hook and eye in wash-away-thread, I determined the band was STILL too loose and chopped off another 3cm!

CONCLUSION

First and foremost, this bra is VERY comfortable with a very generous band length (due to the +4” sizing). Then again, I would imagine any bra made entirely of stretch fabric to be comfy regardless of pattern. Straps are a bit far set on my frame and cups seem a bit small. On my body, the overall shape of the bra seem to be more horizontal than vertical (like the diagram). The horizontal seam crosses my bust point perfectly but does accentuate my natural East/West shape. The awkward triangles I added are doing double duty by providing an attachment point for the nursing clasp and functioning as internal slings to minimize the east/westing.

If I were to make this again, I would bring in the strap attachment points, raise the height of the upper cup for more coverage and either add a horizontal sling or reinforce the lower cup. As is, its a wearable muslin for around the house if you don’t need much support.

The Hugo Quili 2026 is a economical option for those who are on the smaller BCD side. It may be ideal for those who have a large band and small cup as their are only 4 BCD sizes - 9 cm (3.5”), 10 cm (3.9”) , 11 cm (4.3”), and 12.5 cm (4.9”). This is assuming the 25% vertical stretch. The pattern may also work well for those who have small band, small cup with the caveat that they will need to remove some length from the band and bring in the strap attachment points.