The Lotus pattern features a combination of traditional bra measuring techniques as well as Bottom Cup Depth. Today's post will feature how to alter the Lotus pattern for those who do not fall squarely within a specific size.
To review, traditional methods of determining bra sizing involves measuring the underbust and the full bust then subtracting the difference. The Bottom Cup Depth involves measuring the distance between the bust point (nipple) and wireline (breast crease).
For those who are very projected or shallow shaped [for a primer on breast anatomy see HERE], measuring using either of these two methods may yield a cup that is much larger or much smaller. For those with shallow breasts, the correct volume may have empty space and/or wrinkles within the cup. For those who are very projected, the cup may be too small.
Select the cup size that best corresponds to your breast root and note the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD). Compare the BCD of the pattern size with your BCD measurement. Using your BCD measurement, highlight the wireline (ONLY) on the pattern. From here you will need to grade from your bra size to your BCD size. This means maintaining the width and height (above the bust point) while shortening the height between the bust point and wireline.
In the above left example, the bra size was 32E = 10.9 cm but actual BCD was only 9.3 cm. Grade from the larger Bra Size to the smaller BCD size while maintaining width of the cup as shown in red. If this person were to make the 9.3 size + 32 band, the cups would be much too small (equivalent to 32D) while a 10.9 size would likely fit width-wise but too long in the vertical seam causing wrinkles.
If the situation were reversed where the Bra Size was smaller than the BCD Size, then you again maintain the width but lengthen the bust point to wireline height as shown in blue. If this person were to make the 12.5 bra size, the cup would be too small while the 13.3 size may be too wide and wrap around toward the back.
Repeat the process for the other cup pattern piece then true the lines with the wireline of the cradle. In the Shallow Breast case, the cradle will likely need to be shortened while the Projected Breast may need to be lengthened. You may also need to correct the angle of the side seam.
Stay tuned for more tutorials and tips!