We’ve received some questions on how to sew that curve at the center front of the Lotus Wireless Bra Pattern. So here’s quick tutorial (with photos!) on my method.
For those who are working with multiple layers (fashion exterior and lining interior), do yourself a favor and baste the layers together. This makes the sewing process a bit easier and, in the case below, ensures the lace stays in place.
Line up the fold line of the cradle to the center seam line of the cups - right sides together. Pin along that center fold line as shown below.
You will notice the cradle has 3 dots - the center dot should align with the center fold, the two on either side should align with the seam on the cups. Line up the outer two dots with the seam line of each cup and use a pin to secure.
Line up the seam allowance edge between the 3 dots and secure with pins.
You may pin the remainder of the cup/cradle along the wireline and begin sewing with cradle side up. Stop as often as necessary to move the lower layers of fabric out of the way.
In the photo below, I’ve manipulated the lower fabric toward me to keep the layers smooth. Once you near the center front curve, you may need to lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric every few stitches. Slowly pivot and stitch until the center fold line (there should be a pin there) the lift the presser foot and pull the excess fabric toward the back.
Pivot the fabric so the seam allowance is aligned with the presser foot again. Continue sewing toward the underarm edge to finish.
It should now look something like this:
You can top stitch down as is, add underwire channeling for some extra support, or a bit of seam tape if you like a cleaner finish.
An alternative method would be to cut along the fold line of the cradle and add seam allowance. Then you can sew each curve separately and center front seam last. This may be a nice option for those who are particularly narrow set.
Check back next week for a tutorial on how to apply underwire channeling!