Bespoke Bras, Lingerie and Supplies

Sewing Bras - Troubleshooting the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 Bra


So a while back, I tried sewing the Merckwaerdigh Mix 30 bra and while the bra came together relatively easily, it didn't fit.  I have since dismantled that bra and turned it into a fitting band.  Its such a cute design - I really want to make it work.  So I went back to made a bra toile of the cups to see if I could find out what the problem was.  The 32F (sister sized down from 36D!) toile cup was obviously too small so I tried the 32FF (sister sized from 38D) and its still not quite right.

Anyone else have this problem with the Mix 30 pattern?  I don't really want to try the next cup size up (and last cup!) as that would require even more redrafting since the base of the cup would be too big for the cradle.  I'm now on toile #4...