Bespoke Bras, Lingerie and Supplies

Tutorial - Using Stretch Fabric for the Lotus Pattern


Today’s tutorial focus on how to adapt the Lotus bra pattern for knit fabric. This is a great option for those who want a comfy sleep bra, experience bloating throughout the month (or day!) as well as those who are expecting and/or nursing!

Before we begin, it is important to note that the stretch percentage of your chosen fabric will play an important role in how your final bra will turn out. Our example features a ribbed cotton knit with 40% horizontal stretch and 20% vertical stretch with a stretch lace overlay. Ideally, your fabric will have a small percentage of spandex/lycra for recovery (at least 5%) and substantial enough (at least 250 gsm) to provide a bit of support. This usually means the lightweight rayon spandex wont provide enough support without multiple layers and/or lining fabric that meets the criteria.

If your fabric has 30-40% stretch, you can just cut out one size smaller for the cups and cradle. If your fabric has 60% stretch, you may need to cut out two sizes smaller. For the back band, I cut out my usual size without any alterations as I wanted a looser fit. It is for this same reason that I also used a band elastic with high stretch percentage - 100% in this case. As for the cradle, you may need to reduce the wireline match the new shorter length.

Grading Bra Size to BCD Size3.JPG

In our example, a few alterations were made for better fit. This includes a BCD reduction and Projection Increase before selecting a smaller size to cut out. Also included in this version was a deep V neckline and G-Hooks to better accommodate nursing (tutorial coming soon!).


I’m super pleased with this stretchy knit version. Its very comfortable and will accommodate growing bellies and boobs alike. Add an internal sling (and a few clips) and this can very easily convert to a nursing bra.